Hello from Namche Bazzar (3450m above sea level)

OK, I'm going to have to keep this one short. In Kathmandu, internet costs 20 rupees (about 45 cents) an hour. Here, it's 20 rupees per minute.

It was looking pretty doubtful that we would get out on our second day. We had one false alarm where we were acutally in the plane with the engines started when they pulled the plug. We then spent half an hour just sittiing out on the tarmac (not quite the security system we have back home) before being shuttled back to the terminal. We had given up all hope and were paking our bags when a guy came running into the terminal saying we were going to give it another try. Within 15 minutes we had shuttled out to the plane, loaded up, and were heading down the runway.

And what a flight it was. Just incredible, words can't describe it. Had to go through a couple of passes where the mountains rose above us on both sides and we didn't have a whole lot of clearance below. Then, we turned north and headed up the valley towards our destination a Lukla. For those who have never heard about this airstrip, it begs a description. As we're flying up this very steep, very tall valley, I was able to sneak a peak out the front of the plane. There, half way up the valley side, looking as if it was literally hanging off the side of the mountain, was a tiny little airstrip. You can actually see most of the airstrip because it's not flat. It's angled upwards quite steeply which allows the planes to stop before the runway runs out. Good thing too, because after that it's just mountain. It was quite a ride, but actually pretty smooth. We were still quite happy to be on the ground. And Mom, don't worry it's not really that dangerous. The airstrip has been in use for something like 30 years and has never had a major accident.

So after that, we began our trek. The first day was spent actually descending to our first stop at Phakding. Rained on us the whole way, but the view was spectactular anyway. No Himalayas though, too much cloud. The next day, we continued our journey up the lush valley. We eventually crossed a crazy suspension bridge and began the nasty slog up to Namche Bazzar. The altitude really began to make itself fealt and by the end, I was having a hard time going at a snails pace.

But we made it and we're staying at a great lodge. The lodge owner is friends with the guy who made the Everest IMAX film, so we all piled into his bedroom last night to watch it on tape. So cool to be watching that film when the mountian is so close.

Hiked up to the Everest View Hotel today. This hotel is perched at about 3850m with views of Everest, Nupste, Lhotse (3rd highest peak in the world), and Ama Dablam. Unfortunately, due to the clouds, we couldn't see any of them. However, on the way up, the clouds did part and we were able to see from the bottom of the river valley we climbed up (2000m elevation) to the top of a nearby, but lower peak (roughly 6000m). I've never seen something so big. The sheer size of this thing was unimaginable. Just mind blowing. I can't imagine what the big ones will look like!

One thing that has become very clear to me so far is that maps are 2 dimensional. Always rember that.

We're off tomorrow and will definitely be beyond contact for a while. Hopefully we get at least one clear day .....

Take care and talk to you soon,

Justin

Namaste

Well, we made it to Nepal alright. A little lighter in the wallet after being relieved of my traveller's cheques in Bangkok, but that's the beauty of American Express. Don't leave home without it.

First off, Jamie, I owe you several pints at Elwoods when we get back. Lhakpa (your Sherpa friend) has been unbelieveably helpful. Don't know what we would have done without her. She picked us up at the airport after our slightly bumping ride into Kathmandu (no mountain views unfortuantely). Getting through immigration was a not so quick introduction to the beauties of rampant bureaucracy. Jumped between so many lines, my head was spinning. Once we finally got through, it was great to see my name of a piece of paper on the other side of the road.

It actually wasn't Lhakpa who picked us up, since she doesn't have the appropriate pass to get into the airport area. Military is a bit tight around here right now. We met her at the bottom of the hill. I was surprised to find out that she's a she and she was surprised to find that I'm a he. At least we're even.

From here we headed into Kathmandu. I cannot begin to describe the madness that we saw. Narrow roads, filled solid with cars, vans, bikes, motorbikes, people, and the odd cow. Streets too narrow for one car and they're packing with cars going either direction. Each one trying to push through with the sheer sound of their horns. And these narrow roads go up and down, back and forth, resembling a hiking train more than a road. Completely random. And all along there are people. TONS of people. People dressed in everything from rags, to traditional Hindu garb, to very western clothes. All walking or sitting or trying to share the road with us. Just crazy.

There really is no analog in the western world. Imagine the Sun Run on Georgia street, but in the middle of rush hour traffic. On Halloween. Just after an earthquake has reduced the surrounding buildings to near rubble and narrowed the street to one lane. That's as close as I can get, but it's still not it. Something quite distinct to the Indian subcontinent I imagine.

Once we finally got to our hotel, we checked in then went to get our plane tickets for Lukla. Another adventure. After that, we grabbed dinner (dal batt) and headed back to the guesthouse. Had to be in by 9 p.m. since a curfew has been imposed from 9 til 4. Also found that today was the first day of a general strike, so nothing's open. Again, Lhakpa saved us, since she was able to come help us find sleeping bags and such that we need for our trekk. Spent the rest of the day touring around Durbar Square with a guy we met at the guesthouse.

So, we're all set for our trek now. Fly out to Lukla tomorrow for 21 days in the Khumu (Everest region). Can't wait to get going up there, but not sure if I'll be able to carry my back pack. I knew I should have run more before I left (and drank less in Japan). Oh well, I guess I'll just have to get Aiden to carry my stuff .... :-)

OK, I'd better go. Time's running out on my access here. This internet access is actually just as good as Japan. The world is shrinking ...

Take care of yourselves,

Justin

The Sidewalk Ends .....

Believe it or not, I'm sitting in a Starbucks at Narita Airport, surfing the web. It appears that their plans for world domination are almost complete. Our trip to Japan has been really great. Short, but great. Had a wicked time with the cousins on Kyushu. Recieved general disbelief everytime we explained to people that all 5 of us are cousins, all in Japan at the same time. Had many comments as well on how lucky we are to have such a close family. Which we are.

Anyway, we'll be jumping on a plane to Bangkok soon. Things have been pretty easy so far, Japan is set up quite well for the Western traveller. This country is also almost completely free of crime, very safe. Sort of a self policing society. We'll have to keep track of our stuff a little more closely after this. But we're also looking forward to a change of pace and a little more challenge. Luckily, Jamie hooked us up with a Sherpa in Kathmandu who is going to pick us up at the airport and help us arrange our flights in Nepal. Should make things a bit easier .....

Another long day for us. Up at 5:00 am to catch our first train at 6:30. 8 and a half hours later, we got here to the airport. Plane takes off around 6:00 p.m. and it's a 6 and 1/2 hour flight to Thailand. One night in Bangkok and we fly out for Nepal. Just in time to rest for a bit then head up into the mountains. Somehow this all seemed much easier when we first planned it ....

Anyway, I'd better get going. Don't want to miss the flight. I hope that all is well with everyone else.

Take care,

Justin

P.S. Another thing about this country, they're obsessed with Disney. If I have to hear one more flute version of the Aladdin theme, I'm going to lose it. Thai pop will be a welcome change .....

Onsen

Second installment in what will hopefully prove to be a long and annoying series of completely impersonal, mass e-mails. Sitting on tatami mats in my cousin Dereck's place enjoying an Ashahi beer. Have spent the last couple of days with my cousins and we've had a blast. Really great to get out here into the more rural part of Japan (yes they do have trees) and get to see things a little more close up. Vast difference between the big cities and this.

One of the amazing thing we were able to experience here was the Onsen. An Onsen is a Japanese spa / comunal bath deal, fed by natural hot springs. This place was incredible. Can't begin to describe the place or the unbelievable effect is has on your physical and mental state. Went in feeling tired and still slightly jet lagged. Walked out feeling like a million bucks. Liked it so much that we went this morning as well and we're going again tomorrow. Aiden, Dereck, and I are now making plans to bring the concept to North America, making a tidy profit. If not, it has been added to the plans for my dream home. Dorian, you would love it.

And we needed to be revived a bit this morning. Some of Dereck's friends came up with him to Suzanne's last night and we had a bit of a bash. Dereck introduced us to Shochu. This drink, the pride of Kyushu, is essentially sweet potatoe whisky. The oldest woman in the world lives in Kagoshima (where we are tonight) and claims her long life is associated with daily doeses of Shochu. Depending on who you talk to, this stuff can do just about anything. Including get a person highly intoxicated.

So, after many rounds of Shochu, we descided that when in Rome, we must do as the Romans. What does that mean? What else, Kareoke. It's a bit different here though, as you rent a room for your group and don't have to deal with the crowds or prying eyes and ears of others. One hour turned into two and believe me, Japan has never heard such a racket. We had a killer time and screamed ourselves silly. Great time, but my throat hurts and I'm sure a few other people's ears feel the same.

Funny experience too when we walked into the Kareoke joint. Ran into this group of young Japanese kids that were completely inebreated. Just trashed. If you didn't know, Japanese people drink. A lot. And these kids were no exception. I won't give details, but one thing we've discovered is that Japanese people seem quite obsessed with breasts. It's actually the girls, not the guys who are most obsessed. One in our crowd was subjected to a random groaping, by another girl .....

We had a great time at Kareoke, but there was a bit of a somberness at one point. We were looking through the list of songs and I picked one out to add to the queue. Ring of Fire by Johnny Cash. As I punch it in, one in our group notices and lets me know that Johnny is no longer with us. Came as quite a shock as it was unexpected and I hadn't heard yet. I've been listening to Johnny a lot lately so this really sucks. Once June went, I didn't think he'd be around long. Still sucks though. A great man and a great musician. Right up until the end, he was making great, valid music. So we gave tribute to the man in Black as best we could, given the state we were in.

Anyway, I'd better get going. We take off for Bangkok on Tuesday, then on to Nepal. I imagine e-mail will come less frequently after that, so not sure when I'll get back to you. I hope all is well with all of you.

Take care,

Justin

P.S. Aunty Muriel, we lit a candle last night when we were having dinner.

Konnichiwa

Somehow I neglected to think about the logistics of flying over this way until it was too late. Due to the time difference, we flew out of Vancouver at around 1 pm on Sept 9th and arrived in Tokyo at around 3 pm on Sept. 10th. Following a ride on the fabled Shinkansen (bullet train) and a few other short lines, we arrrived at Ryan's near Kyoto at around 10 pm. By the time we got to sleep, it was after midnight. Doesn't seem that late, but we'd been up for over 26 hours by that point. In that state, a bed of tatami mats fealt like one of those wickedly expensive pillow top beds from Sleep Country. The ones you always check out when you're in there but can't afford to buy. Slept like a baby. We spent today wandering aimlessly around Kyoto taking it all in. Good time, but tired again. Heading for Kyushu tomorrow, rushing to get there before the typhoon hits. You'd think we'd be heading in the opposite direction, but somehow this seems logical ....

Impressions of Japan so far

- Japanese people are ridiculously helpful. We were on a train last night with a pretty good idea of where we were going. However, we must have looked cofused becasue an older Japanese man asked us where we were going. We told him the station and talked to him a bit, telling him where we are from. Pretty soon, he was talking to the person next to him. This conversation quickly grew until about 6 people were involved. It continued until they concluded that we should get off at the next stop, switch to an express train, and take it 3 stops fruther. The man even got off to escort us. Too much.

- There must be a plot by the Japanese to fight global warming using air conditioners. Everyone blasts these in stores and offices and leaves the doors wide open. Walking down the street, you get hit by these rivers of cold air pouring out of every door. Gotta love efficiency

- Huge contrast everywhere. Hot outside, cold inside. Moving around on the train, you'll see a perfect picture of rural life. A worker walking down a dirt path in the middle of a rice patty. But when you widen your view, you see that this is jammed between the rail line, a bunch of modern houses, and line of stores.

- Go big or go home. Everything here is new and huge. The Kyoto train station is stupidly big. Looks like something out of Star Wars. On top of this gigantic structure, there's a skyway that you can use to walk along the top, 13 stories above the bottom level (below which there are more levels). I was sure that Darth Vader was going to jump out at any minute.

- Too many people

Anyway, I'll quit boring you now and go to sleep. I hope everything is well with you all. Feel free to write back and let me know how things are going. I'd love to hear. Just can't promise I'll write back. :-)

Take it easy,

Justin